It seems we are constantly bombarded with new ‘miracle’ skin care products that promise to erase the signs of aging and restore youthful skin. However, more often than not we end up with a clutter of partially-used products instead of the skin we were promised. Is there anything that truly delivers? The answer is a resounding… yes. Despite the latest skincare fads, most skin experts agree that a well-formulated retinoid product (combined with sun protection) is absolutely essential for anyone hoping to improve their skin. Backed by decades of clinical research, retinoids are the only anti-aging products approved by Health Canada to reduce facial wrinkles, photo damage (aging of the skin from sun exposure), and acne.
Long-considered the gold standard in anti-aging skincare, proper use of a retinoid product will result in skin that is smoother, brighter, tighter, and blemish-free.
What are Retinoids?
Retinoids are a group of active ingredients derived from vitamin A, which are applied topically. Often referred to as “Retin A”, or “retinol” there are many types, brands, concentrations, and formulations of retinoids – all of which influence their strength and effectiveness.
Retinoids were first approved as a treatment for acne. However, when researchers discovered their effect on aging skin, retinoids were eventually approved and marketed as a wrinkle treatment.
How do Retinoids Work?
Vitamin A is a cell-communicating ingredient, meaning it encourages skin cells to look and act like normal, younger skin cells. When applied topically, retinoids increase cell turnover leading to improvement in discoloration and skin texture. They also stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid which helps to reduce wrinkles and increase hydration.
Contrary to popular belief, retinoids do not thin the skin. In fact they actually thicken both the epidermis and dermis, resulting in younger-looking skin.
Types of Retinoids
There are many types and strengths of retinoids, ranging from prescription-strength to over-the-counter (OTC). The most common retinoids utilized in skincare include:
1) Retinoic acid
- Also known as tretinoin
- Very active form
- Available by prescription only, in concentrations ranging from 0.025% to 0.1%
- May cause skin irritation such as dryness, redness, and peeling
- Brands include Retin-A, and Renova
2) Retinol
- Weaker than retinoic acid, and therefore less irritating
- Available in concentrations ranging from 0.075% to 1%
- Widely available in OTC products. Many brands available, with stronger concentrations typically seen in physician-grade skincare lines
- Is converted to retinoic acid when applied to the skin
Other types of retinoids seen in OTC skincare include retinaldehyde and retinyl palmitate. When applied to the skin, these too are eventually converted to retinoic acid.
How to Use Retinoids
When using a retinoid for the first time, many people choose a retinol product due to the fact that they are widely available and well-tolerated. These products work slower than prescription-strength retinoids, because the body needs to convert the retinol into retinoic acid. The advantage is that they offer similar results with minimal irritation to the skin.
Retinoids are degraded by sunlight, therefore your product should be in an opaque tube or pump. Likewise, retinoids should be applied only at night, onto clean dry skin. Only a pea-sized amount is required to treat the whole face. Whether you are using tretinoin or retinol, it is often a good idea to start slow – for example, every third night – and gradually increase use to every night. This minimizes irritation and allows the skin to acclimate to the retinoid. A basic moisturizer may be applied over top of your retinoid product to help prevent skin dryness.
Daily sunscreen is essential. Even the most effective clinically-proven anti-aging ingredients will not offer results if you are not diligent about sun protection. After all, sun damage created most of what you are trying to improve.
As with most skincare products, patience is required in order to see maximum results. Retinoids generally provide noticeable results within three to six months, and their use should be continued in order to retain the anti-aging and anti-acne benefits. When used consistently, retinoids will keep your skin clear, even out skin tone, smooth wrinkles, repair sun damage, and prevent premature aging.
Our skin experts can help you build an effective skincare routine that includes a suitable retinoid product for your skin type. Please contact us to get started!
